It's Ilford ULF time!

Ilford's ULF (Ultra Large Format) ordering window is open until Monday, June 30.

That's good news for 127 film users, since the sale includes 50-foot rolls of fresh 46mm film, which you can cut and load onto 127 spools, using 127-size backing paper, to use in your 127-format cameras.

There are links to tutorials about how to do this on our Other Film Formats in 127-Format Cameras page.

The current Ilford sale includes both FP4+ and HP5+ in 46mm bulk rolls. The wider availability of FP4+ is especially good news, since many of the old 127 cameras are designed for film in this speed range. (Last year I found FP4+ quietly available at only one retailer).

An international list of ULF retailers is available at Ilford's website.

Ilford's website says, "We will start to ship orders to our resellers and distributor network during September and end users should check with their local ULF reseller for expected arrival dates. If your usual reseller is not able to take your order, please get in touch and we’ll see if we can redirect you to the nearest one that can." 

See you on the 12th of July!

Film Ferrania announces their intention to produce 127 film

As reported by Kosmo Foto, Film Ferrania cofounder Nicola Baldini indicated, in a response to a March 6 post on the Facebook 127 Film Shooters Group that the company intends to begin production of 127 film!

In a July 7, 2020 blog post, Film Ferrania announced that their P30 film was in production in 120 format.

In 2015, Ferrania spokesperson Dave Bias indicated that the company has "the capability (machines and knowledge) to produce 127 film”, which he described as "high on the 'wish list'.” In the March 6 Facebook post, Baldini said, "127 is the little brother of 120 and as soon we finished to setup of our internal 120 converting line jumping to 127 will be much easier.”

Many thanks to Charles J. Katz, Jr. for alerting me to this exciting news!

The Facebook 127 Film Shooters Group is run by Cheyenne Morrison.

ReraPan is back!

127 enthusiasts can rejoice -- ReraPan is available again, this time in 400 speed! Here's the page from Freestyle:

A “How To” on Using Cut-Down 120 Film in a 127 Camera That Has a Red Window and Makes 4x3cm or 4x6cm Images - by Luke Taylor

This article shows a way to use 120 film that has been cut down using the technique that directly transfers the full length of 120 (film and backing paper) straight to a 127 spool for use in 4x3cm and 4x6cm 127 film cameras that use one (4x6cm) or two (4x3cm) red windows for frame alignment. While the 4cm frame spacing of a 4x4cm camera can use the same frame numbers printed on the 120 backing paper (16 frames), there doesn’t seem to be an easy way to use cut film in the 4x3 or 4x6 cameras. Here is a method that may be worthwhile. 

With this technique we will only align the first frame using the red window. After that we will blindly rotate the advance knob a predetermined number of degrees for each frame. The number of degrees rotated will be different for each frame. This is because as more film accumulates on the takeup spool, the bigger diameter it will get, and less rotation required to get the same amount of linear film movement. 

To aid in rotating the advance knob with a fair amount of precision and no tools we will need to do the following. 

1. Put a sticker on the advance knob. 

2. Draw a line that cuts it in half and repeat until 8 equal segments have been formed. 

3. When spooling the film, mark the paper where the film element starts.

4. Load the camera with the cut and respooled film and advance until you see the mark made earlier in the red window. Then, using good judgment, advance an amount more that will position the film element for the first shot. This is the last time you will use the red window. 

5. Use the chart below to advance the film for each frame.  You will rotate the advance knob by the “Fullturn” amount followed by the “Segment “ amount. 

Table for 4x6cm frames:

Frame     FullTurns     Segments 

1-2               2                 4.5

2-3               2                 2.5

3-4               2                 0.5

4-5               1                 7.5

5-6               1                 6.5

6-7               1                 5.5

7-8               1                 5.0

8-9               1                 4.0

9-10              1                 4.0

10-11             1                 3.0    

For example, to advance from frame 2 to frame 3, rotate the knob 2 full turns plus 2.5 segments.

I currently have not tried this in a 4x3cm camera yet, but I assume you could simply divide the “Fullturn” and “Segment” numbers in half. If you try it out, please share the results!

- Luke Taylor

Hope for ReraPan...

Breaking news - a screenshot of a Twitter page, from an anonymous source ...

I'm hopeful... I'll keep you posted on further developments (so to speak) as I hear of them.

Here is the method I use to cut 120 film down for use in 127 cameras - by Luke Taylor

I am offering a 3D printed cutting device on eBay (blue and yellow thing in the pictures) but any method to cut the roll will work.  My first device was nothing more than a shallow hole cut into a block and a utility knife blade screwed to the block.  The device has a recess in the yellow part to contain the end of the roll while the blue arm that houses a razor blade is lowered into the film.  Here are step by step instructions on how to use it.

With great care, it is possible to do steps 1 through 6 in subdued light.

Step 1: If you want to use the film in a 4x4cm camera that shows the film’s frame numbers in a red window, pay close attention to the roll orientation in the picture. This will preserve the 4cm frame numbers.  (The backing paper on 120 film has frame numbers for both 4 cm and 6 cm images; we want to use the 4cm frame numbers for 127 format). If you do not plan to use the film in a 4x4 camera that has a red window then it does not matter which end of the roll is cut off.

Step 2:  This picture shows the film roll in the recess hole in the yellow side of the cutter.  It is important to keep pressure on the roll as it is rotated to keep it bottomed out in this hole.  This will ensure the cut is even and at the correct depth.  It is also important that the rotation of the film is such that the drag of the blade is “tightening” the rolled film on the spool.  The picture shows this direction with a red arrow. 

Step 3: Rotate the film with one hand and apply moderate pressure downward on the blue cutter arm with the other.  Continue until the blade has cut through all of the film and backing paper.  You will notice the drag of the blade will increase when it contacts the plastic spool.  Do not attempt to cut off the spool; only the film and backing paper are to be cut.

Step 4 & 5:  Unspool a length of the backing paper until the “Start” marking is seen.  Be careful not to unspool too much paper - that will expose the film to light.  I use a big metal binder clip (as seen in Picture 5) to hold the remaining film on the spool while I prepare to cut off the excess paper.  Fold the backing paper in half lengthwise and make a diagonal cut.  This technique will ensure a very symmetrical “V” in the paper.  Bottoming out this “V” in the 127-spool slot will perfectly center the paper in the spool.  I would not attempt to cut any shape by “eye” because it won’t be centered well and will cause difficulty when loading to 127 spool.  The length is not very critical.  We are just trying to remove the excess amount so the completed spool diameter will not be too big.

Step 6: You can get the paper started on the 127 spool and clip it as well to prepare it for the transfer steps.

The remaining steps must be done in a darkroom or changing bag.

Step 7 & 8: In complete darkness roll the backing paper tightly onto the 127 spool until you feel the tape on the start of the film.  Carefully peel the tape off and save it (I just stick it to the back of my other hand).*

Step 9:  Carefully tuck the film into the partially rolled backing paper and continue to roll the film and backing paper onto the 127 spool.

Step 10 & 11:  While transferring be sure to allow slack between the 120 and 127 spool for the film and backing paper.  Because the 120 and 127 spools are different diameters, a buildup of excess film will happen.  I have been successful with letting go of the 120 spool once the 127 has a decent amount of material on it.  It may also be necessary to “tighten” the film on the 127 spool as you go to ensure it is fully seated on the new, smaller diameter spool.

Step 12:  When you’ve rolled to the end of the film, tape the film to the backing paper using the tape we saved from the beginning (Step 8).  This is also the time to mark the backing paper to indicate where the film is starting.  I use little stickers for this.

I am hoping this article will encourage more people to shoot images for the next 127 Day. 

*Note about Lomography film: I have found the tape they use to be INSANELY sticky. This has caused a lot of frustration when transferring the tape, FYI. 

- Luke Taylor 

How to cut 120 film down to 127 size by James Tappin

[Editor's note: I'm delighted to present 127 Film Photography's first article, authored by James Tappin.

Many thanks to James for sharing his expertise!]

This is a method that I have used successfully (and also destroyed some films).

You will need:

1. A roll of 120 film
2. A 127 spool
3. A second 120 spool
4. A changing bag (or a darkroom)
5. A large cigar cutter (80 ring gauge -- this is the only readily available size that will fit over a 120 flange).
6. An accurate vernier caliper
7. Scissors
8. Convenient length gauges for the length trims (I use 3 pieces of acrylic "glass" because I had some left over from something else)
9. A marker with good contrast to the backing paper

If available a 120 film back from a medium format system SLR is handy but not needed.

Step 1:

Either by hand in the changing bag or darkroom, or using the 120 back, spool the film onto the spare 120 spool, so it is now in the “exposed” direction.

Steps 2 through 6 can be done in daylight.

Step 2:

Cut off the excess on the trailer. From the tip of the 120 tab, I usually cut 220mm (for "standard" length 127 film you should cut 290mm; in theory it might be possible to get away with as little as 80mm).

Step 3:

With the vernier caliper measure and mark 46.5mm from one side. The flanges of the 127 spool are 47.2mm apart, but anything more than 46.5 and it's likely to be impossible to get it to fit in smoothly. Do NOT try to use another 127 backing paper as a guide; it's just not accurate enough.

Step 4:

Slip the cigar cutter over the end of the film and very carefully score around at the 46.5mm mark. Only cut through 1 or 2 layers at this stage.

Step 5:

Cut a tail on the paper so that it will fit into the 127 spool.

Step 6:

Make sure the film, the 127 spool, the cigar cutter, the scissors, and the measure for trimming the back end of the film itself are all in the changing bag.

Steps 7 through 15 must be done in a changing bag or complete darkness.

Step 7:

Very carefully replace the cutter on the film roll, and align it with the initial cut.

Step 8:

Gently but firmly squeeze the cutter and rotate the film spool such that the drag tightens the film on the spool. Continue until the short end of the spool comes right off.

Step 9:

Fit the end of the backing paper into the 127 spool and start to roll it onto it, feeling for the film itself (it won't be far).

Step 10:

Cut off the excess length from the film. For 220mm off the backing paper, I cut 95mm off the film; for standard 127 cut 165 mm off.

Step 11:

Continue to roll paper and film onto the 127 roll (put a little slack into the paper at this point as the 127 roll is more tightly wound). If you find the edges crinkling and snagging on the flanges at this stage -- chuck it and try another roll, and cut it a bit narrower next time!

Step 12:

When you get to the start point of the film you may find there is a small excess of film or paper. In this case carefully unstick the tape, and re-stick it where the lengths match.

Step 13:

Draw a line across the backing paper where the film starts (or a little bit after).

Step 14:

Finish rolling the leader onto the spool.

Step 15:

Carefully holding the roll so it doesn't come undone extract it from the changing bag.

Step 16 can be done in daylight.

Step 16:

Cut 150mm off the leader, and make a tab to fit the 127 spool (taking care not to let the roll come loose).

I recommend putting it straight into the camera at this stage as (a) there's no tape to keep it done up and (b) the edges may not fit as close to the spool flanges as machine-made films.

Note that this method is only really suitable for cameras like the Yashica 44 (and possibly some baby Rolleiflexes) that use the red window to align frame 1, and then have an internal mechanism thereafter.

To align the film for frame 1 (Yashica 44):

• wind on until your marker is seen
• reset the counter
• wind on 1 frame
• reset the counter again.

With the measurements that I use you should get 15 frames on a 4x4.

For a more automatic counter you will need to determine how far the start mark should be from the film start and make a mark there instead of at the film start. I'm not sure how you could do it for a camera that relies on the red window for advancing other than using a "new" backing paper with 127 numbers, which adds a whole new alignment problem.

I recommend trying this with cheap film first, as it's quite easy to destroy a roll. So far I've only used cheap expired film. Unfortunately the cheapest major brand currently available in 120 size, Fomapan, has black backing paper which would make marking the start much harder (maybe a sticky label would work?). [Editor’s note: Or perhaps a silver gel pen?].

Also: Cigar cutters are VERY sharp, mind your fingers!