Saturday, June 16, 2018

Tuesday, June 12, 2018

One month till 127 Day!

July 127 Day is only a month away! It takes place on Thursday, the 12th of July (that's 12/7 in European).

127 Film Photography will feature 127-format photographs made on July 12, 2018, in a special exhibition. You're invited to participate!

No fees, no competition, just a friendly virtual community joining together to make 127-format photos on  July 12, 2018.

To show your work,
  1. Take 127-format photographs on  July 12, 2018.
  2. Send one of your photographs from July 12 to 127 Film Photography. Please email one jpg file, 500 pixels wide, to 127filmformat ~at~, by September 12, 2018. (That's a month longer than previously - hopefully this gives everyone enough time to get their film developed and scanned).
  3. In the subject line of your email, type "July 2018 127 Day."
  4. In the body of the email, please include the copyright symbol, your name, the title of the photograph, location, camera and film types, and your website address (or other link to your work). In that order. Please follow this example (you don't have to use initials if you prefer to be known by your full name!):

    ©J. M. Golding, Tidal, northern California, USA, Yogi Bear 127 camera, Rerapan,

All types of 127 film format are welcome, whether the film began its existence as 127, or you used 35 mm film in a 127 camera, or you respooled 46mm film, or you cut down 120 film to 127 size ... or maybe you have a technique that I don't know about yet - if so, please tell me so I can share it with others who love this format (with full credit to you, of course - or perhaps you'd like to write a short article for 127 Film Photography about it!). Photos made on 127 film in a different size camera are welcome too.

127 Film Photography will publish all photos received (as long as they are in 127 format and do not contain images of nudity, violence, or exploitation).

I look forward to seeing your 127 Day photos!

Saturday, June 9, 2018

Saturday, June 2, 2018

Here is the method I use to cut 120 film down for use in 127 cameras - by Luke Taylor

I am offering a 3D printed cutting device on eBay (blue and yellow thing in the pictures) but any method to cut the roll will work.  My first device was nothing more than a shallow hole cut into a block and a utility knife blade screwed to the block.  The device has a recess in the yellow part to contain the end of the roll while the blue arm that houses a razor blade is lowered into the film.  Here are step by step instructions on how to use it.

With great care, it is possible to do steps 1 through 6 in subdued light.

Step 1: If you want to use the film in a 4x4cm camera that shows the film’s frame numbers in a red window, pay close attention to the roll orientation in the picture. This will preserve the 4cm frame numbers.  (The backing paper on 120 film has frame numbers for both 4 cm and 6 cm images; we want to use the 4cm frame numbers for 127 format). If you do not plan to use the film in a 4x4 camera that has a red window then it does not matter which end of the roll is cut off.

Step 2:  This picture shows the film roll in the recess hole in the yellow side of the cutter.  It is important to keep pressure on the roll as it is rotated to keep it bottomed out in this hole.  This will ensure the cut is even and at the correct depth.  It is also important that the rotation of the film is such that the drag of the blade is “tightening” the rolled film on the spool.  The picture shows this direction with a red arrow. 

Step 3: Rotate the film with one hand and apply moderate pressure downward on the blue cutter arm with the other.  Continue until the blade has cut through all of the film and backing paper.  You will notice the drag of the blade will increase when it contacts the plastic spool.  Do not attempt to cut off the spool; only the film and backing paper are to be cut.

Step 4 & 5:  Unspool a length of the backing paper until the “Start” marking is seen.  Be careful not to unspool too much paper - that will expose the film to light.  I use a big metal binder clip (as seen in Picture 5) to hold the remaining film on the spool while I prepare to cut off the excess paper.  Fold the backing paper in half lengthwise and make a diagonal cut.  This technique will ensure a very symmetrical “V” in the paper.  Bottoming out this “V” in the 127-spool slot will perfectly center the paper in the spool.  I would not attempt to cut any shape by “eye” because it won’t be centered well and will cause difficulty when loading to 127 spool.  The length is not very critical.  We are just trying to remove the excess amount so the completed spool diameter will not be too big.

Step 6: You can get the paper started on the 127 spool and clip it as well to prepare it for the transfer steps.

The remaining steps must be done in a darkroom or changing bag.

Step 7 & 8: In complete darkness roll the backing paper tightly onto the 127 spool until you feel the tape on the start of the film.  Carefully peel the tape off and save it (I just stick it to the back of my other hand).*

Step 9:  Carefully tuck the film into the partially rolled backing paper and continue to roll the film and backing paper onto the 127 spool.

Step 10 & 11:  While transferring be sure to allow slack between the 120 and 127 spool for the film and backing paper.  Because the 120 and 127 spools are different diameters, a buildup of excess film will happen.  I have been successful with letting go of the 120 spool once the 127 has a decent amount of material on it.  It may also be necessary to “tighten” the film on the 127 spool as you go to ensure it is fully seated on the new, smaller diameter spool.

Step 12:  When you’ve rolled to the end of the film, tape the film to the backing paper using the tape we saved from the beginning (Step 8).  This is also the time to mark the backing paper to indicate where the film is starting.  I use little stickers for this.
I am hoping this article will encourage more people to shoot images for the next 127 Day. 

*Note about Lomography film: I have found the tape they use to be INSANELY sticky. This has caused a lot of frustration when transferring the tape, FYI. 
- Luke Taylor